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| Cover photo: Osaka Castle |
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Osaka is one of Japan's three most famous cities, alongside Tokyo and Kyoto. Its residents are often seen as rebels—those who follow their own path and try to break away from common stereotypes. While people everywhere else in Japan stand on the left side of the escalator, in Osaka, they stand on the right. If Kyoto is the cultural heart of Japan, Osaka is its capital of entertainment. The people here are straightforward and savvy in business and marketing. Unlike the residents of refined and bureaucratic Tokyo, Osakans speak their minds and tell it like it is, so it’s no wonder that many Japanese comedians and entertainers come from here.
I had visited Osaka once before, during my second trip to Japan in May 2019. While staying in Kyoto, we took a day trip here to see Osaka's most touristy area—the Dōtonbori district. This time, we actually stayed in Osaka, specifically near the Shinsekai ('New World') district at the Eslead Hotel Namba South I. A 7-night stay cost us 154 euros (22 euros per person per night). The hotel was nice (similar to the hotels with kitchenettes we stayed at in Nagasaki or Fukuoka); the rooms and the hotel entrance were code-accessible, and check-in was again electronic, confirmed via a brief tablet call.
1st photo - the view from our hotel (on the left the Tsutenkaku Tower and on the right the Abeno Harukas skyscraper), 2nd photo - the vibrant allure of "new world" with ever-present Billiken
The Shinsekai district was established in 1912, and at the time, it showcased modern urban architecture modeled after New York and Paris. After World War II, the area provided entertainment for the laborers working to rebuild the city. Gradually, more and more homeless people from all over Japan began to migrate here. Today, it is one of the poorest parts of Japan, and for me, it represented a grittier, darker side of the country, where for the first time, I didn't feel entirely safe. Dilapidated buildings surrounding the hotel, strange figures slumped on the sidewalks during the day, rats, and cockroaches—all watched over in silence by the statues of the god of luck, Billiken, with his almost sinister grin. You can find various gaming parlors here, whether for shogi, mahjong, or pachinko, along with a vast number of vending machines selling alcohol and cigarettes. Gacha machines are literally everywhere in Osaka—there were even a few in our hotel lobby. Some were even restricted to adults only; I can only imagine what kind of prizes were inside.
1st photo - one of the gacha machines in our hotel ("Butt Detective"), 2nd photo - Billiken, the god of happiness and carefree living, whose philosophy is to take things as they are (by the way, this eerie mascot of consumerism came to Japan from America in the early 20th century)
I started the first day of our stay with a visit to a nearby supermarket. After the wagyu fiasco in Tokyo, I decided to prepare this beef myself. I bought 115 grams of thinly sliced, authentic Japanese Black Wagyu for about 5 euros. Was it worth it? Yes—the meat was excellent and literally melted in my mouth. Since they were thin slices (intended for something like sukiyaki), I just seared them briefly in a pan with a drop of oil and ate them with Japanese rice and a vegetable salad. It was a gourmet experience that I definitely recommend trying (unless you're a vegetarian).
Namba Yasaka Shrine hides an unusual attraction—a stage shaped like a massive lion's head. Built in 1975, it stands at an impressive 12 meters tall. This giant lion's maw is intended to 'swallow' evil spirits and bring good luck, especially in business and education. It perfectly complements the flashy character of this district, where even a sacred site feels like a theme park and everything is designed to dazzle you.
Nearby is the massive Namba Parks shopping center. Located right at Namba Station (a 15-minute walk from our hotel), you’ll find shops dedicated to everything imaginable, from Godzilla and Lego to Star Wars. On the roof, there is a cascading green park with rocks and waterfalls, with plenty of themed restaurants tucked underneath. Namba Parks was built by the same American developer as Canal City in Fukuoka. Right next to it lies Nipponbashi Denden Town ('Electric Town')—Osaka’s version of Tokyo’s Akihabara. It's a paradise for lovers of anime, manga, video games, modeling, and gacha machines.
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| The view from the highest floor of Osaka Castle |
In the 16th century, Osaka became Japan’s most important commercial and industrial hub. Even after Tokyo was named the capital, Osaka remained the place where currency for the Imperial Court was minted. The river connection to Kyoto played a vital role in Osaka’s development, bringing crowds of merchants from across the country, as well as from China and Korea. Osaka grew into an economic powerhouse, peaking during the shogunate of the legendary Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who chose Osaka as his seat of government and built Osaka Castle here. He modeled it after Azuchi Castle, built by Oda Nobunaga, the first 'Great Unifier of Japan.' Hideyoshi continued his predecessor's unification efforts, a task eventually completed by Tokugawa Ieyasu. Ieyasu later captured Osaka Castle and even planned to move the seat of the Tokugawa shogunate there, though his death in 1616 thwarted those plans. In 1665, the castle's main tower burned down after being struck by lightning. During World War II, the castle grounds became part of the Osaka Army Arsenal, serving as a site for arms and ammunition production
Osaka Castle is the city's most visited landmark. Its current version was built in 1931, modeled after the 1585 original. In 1997, an extensive reconstruction of the main tower was completed. The castle grounds are truly massive, covering approximately 61,000 square meters. The fortress is surrounded by two moats—an outer and an inner one. The main tower features five levels on the outside and eight on the inside. It is built upon high stone foundations designed to protect the castle from intruders, similar to Kumamoto Castle. Of all the Japanese castles I’ve visited, Osaka Castle is probably my favorite (sorry, Himeji ☺). Visually, it reminds me of a more beautiful version of Nagoya Castle. Just like in Himeji, there were tourist boats sailing in the moat, which really added to the atmosphere. I highly recommend buying your tickets in advance through Klook.
Traditional Namba and modern Umeda
After visiting the castle, we headed northwest toward the Umeda district. This modern area in the north feels like a polished contrast to the traditional and rugged Namba in the south. Umeda is filled with skyscrapers and offices. To put it simply, you could say that while people go to Umeda primarily for work, they go to Namba mainly for entertainment and great food. On our way to Umeda, we stopped at the Osaka Tenmangu Shrine, which dates back to the 10th century. It is dedicated to the god of learning and hosts the massive Tenjin Matsuri summer festival every July. This festival is one of the three largest in Japan and features a traditional art procession with portable shrines (mikoshi), a vast array of food stalls, and a grand fireworks display to conclude the event.
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| The Osaka Tenmangu Shrine |
The center of Umeda is a major transportation hub, home to JR Osaka Station, the Umeda subway station, and the Osaka-Umeda Station operated by Hankyu. Since everything is traditionally a giant maze of corridors, transferring from the subway to the Hankyu line can feel quite chaotic. Numerous department stores surround the stations, along with the one building I really wanted to see: the Umeda Sky Building. It was designed by architect Hiroshi Hara, who is also responsible for my favorite, Kyoto Station. Umeda Sky consists of two 40-story skyscrapers connected by a series of bridges and escalators. At the top, there is a 360-degree observation deck and something like a 'crater' or, as the architect himself describes it, 'the remains after a spaceship launch.' The structure stands at a total height of 170 meters (190 with the masts) and was completed in 1993. An interesting detail is that you can take the elevator and even the connecting escalator up for free; you only pay for access to the outdoor observation deck (approx. 10 euros). Up there, you’ll find a souvenir shop and a nice, albeit glass-enclosed, view. It’s up to you whether you want to pay to go outside once you're there. For me, the ride on the 'sky escalator' was enough.
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| The remarkable Umeda Sky Building certainly reminds of the Kyoto Station architecture, such as glass-walled sky bridges hanging in the air |
The next day, we decided to explore the shrines and temples around Namba. About one kilometer from our accommodation near the Shinsekai district, we found Isshin-ji Temple. Its history dates back to the 12th century, and its most unique feature is the Buddha statues made from crushed bones and ashes. Since Isshin-ji is a popular place of eternal rest and struggled with a lack of space, the head priest decided in 1887 to use the ashes of the deceased to construct statues. One statue contains the ashes of approximately 150,000 people, and a total of 13 such works have been created so far (6 of which were destroyed during WWII). Just a 5-minute walk from Isshin-ji lies Shitenno-ji Temple ('Temple of the Four Heavenly Kings'). Some sources consider it the first Buddhist and oldest officially administered temple in Japan. While the original temple was built in 593, most of the current structures date from 1963. Shitenno-ji is quite spacious and reminded me of Senso-ji in Asakusa, Tokyo—it features similar entrance gates, a colorful style, and a five-story pagoda.
1st photo - Nenbutsu Hall in thi Isshin-ji Temple, 2nd photo - The Jizo statues, the guardians of children, often seen wearing red bibs at Shitenno-ji Temple
On our way through the backstreets to Ikutama Shrine (a lovely place, worth the visit), we stumbled upon a curious building with a massive metal globe on the roof and a kitschy façade featuring ancient-style columns. As you might have guessed, it was none other than one of the many 'love hotels.' These hotels are very popular in Japan since many young couples live at home with their parents, space is limited, and the walls are paper-thin... You can pay for just a couple of hours or for the entire night, and most of these hotels feature very colorful, bizarre, and kitschy themes—ranging from ancient Rome to Christmas holidays. In stark contrast to this 'den of vice,' right next door lies Reien-ji Temple, with its beautiful wooden entrance gate...
Oases of peace in hectic Osaka
On the fourth day of our stay, I decided to swap the hustle and bustle of Namba for a peaceful forest walk to Minoh Waterfall in northern Osaka. The train journey to the Minoh terminus on the Hankyu line took about an hour and included a (somewhat chaotic) transfer from the Osaka Metro at Umeda Station. After getting off the train at Minoh Station, the walk to the waterfall itself takes about 30 minutes (a 2 km gentle climb with an elevation gain of around 73 m). At the start of the hiking trail, a tall 'tower' about 40–50 meters high caught my eye, which turned out to be an elevator for the massive Minoh Kanko hotel and onsen resort. The path then winds into the forest, following the river of the same name as the waterfall. Along the way, you’ll find a few restaurants, teahouses, inns, souvenir shops, and interestingly, an insect museum.
The most photogenic stop is undoubtedly Ryuan-ji Temple. Located roughly halfway to the waterfall, it was founded in 658. Its main gate was moved here in 1809 from the Imperial Palace in Kyoto. The temple is dedicated to the goddess Benzaiten, and it houses a statue of her that is considered the oldest in Japan. Benzaiten is the goddess of the arts, knowledge, and financial success. Ryuan-ji is regarded as the birthplace of the Japanese lottery, as amulets with lucky numbers began being issued here more than 400 years ago. Every year on October 10th, the Minoh Tomi ceremony is held, where visitors compete for special sacred talismans.
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| Zuiun Bridge at Ryuan-ji Temple |
The waterfall itself drops from a height of 33 meters and is ranked among the top 100 waterfalls in Japan. For the most beautiful view, it’s recommended to visit in autumn when the trees are covered in yellow and red foliage. By the way, the local specialty here is fried maple leaves (!). Only specific edible varieties are used, and they are harvested directly from the trees, never from the ground. After harvesting, they are salted for up to a year to soften properly. They are then deep-fried in a sweet batter with sesame seeds. This delicacy supposedly dates back 1,300 years (no, I didn’t get a chance to taste it).
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| Minoh Waterfall in all its glory |
It was pleasant to escape the city rush and also to take shelter in the forest from the relatively hot sun we had that day. On the way back, I couldn't resist exploring a detour off the main tourist path leading to a lookout on the hill. It was quite a challenging climb up some fairly steep stairs (about 380 of them), which really tested my fitness. However, the view from the top was well worth the effort.
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| View of Osaka from the forest lookout—to the right, you can see the fenced-in area of a golf driving range, and in the center, next to the insect museum building, lies the cemetery belonging to Ryuan-ji Temple |
At another lookout, I met a man with a butterfly net (the kind you see in cartoons ☺). Insect collecting is incredibly popular in Japan, especially among young boys. In the summer, it's common to see children running through parks with small nets and plastic cages, hunting for bugs. Specific stag beetles can even sell for high prices as pets. Samurai kabuto helmets were actually designed to resemble their large mandibles, while the armor mimicked their carapace. Ultimately, this passion for bug hunting even inspired the Pokémon phenomenon.
Posters along the path to the waterfall featuring the Minoh area mascot—a samurai with a head made of a Yuzu citrus fruit
Retro vending machines like these could be found along the forest hiking trail, though they didn't look functional
Another opportunity to escape the city rush is the Sumiyoshi Taisha shrine (approx. 10 minutes by the Nankai line from Namba). It is the main shrine of the Sumiyoshi style, similar to the one I visited in Fukuoka. Its history dates all the way back to the 3rd century (!), and it is dedicated to the deities of the sea and seafaring. In the past, it actually stood on the shores of Osaka Bay, though extensive construction of artificial islands has taken place there since then.If you arrive from the west (the recommended entrance), you enter the main shrine grounds by crossing the beautiful arched Sorihashi Bridge. It is also known as Taikobashi ('drum bridge') because its reflection on the water creates a circle resembling a Japanese taiko drum. According to Shintoism, crossing the bridge spiritually cleanses you of evil energies and sins before entering the sacred area. The bridge is 20 meters long, reaches a height of nearly 4 meters (!), and is very steep (with a 48-degree incline at its peak)—so be careful, or its crossing might turn out to be an all-too-spiritual experience...
The four main halls of the shrine (each dedicated to one of the four main deities) are built in the Sumiyoshi-zukuri style and are the oldest examples of this architectural style, for which it was named. These structures feature bright red pillars with white walls, straight roofs with decorative beams on top, and are surrounded by red fences. One interesting feature is one of the torii gates, which is made of stone and all its parts, including the pillars, are square (unlike typical cylindrical torii gates). Every New Year, Sumiyoshi Taisha becomes one of the busiest places in Japan. During the first three days of the year, an incredible 2 million people (!) usually visit the shrine.
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| One of the four main halls of the Sumiyoshi Taisha shrine. In the foreground, you can see knotted paper fortune slips (omikuji), which people draw at shrines for a small fee. Usually, bad fortunes are left tied at the site, while the good ones are taken home. |
Nagai Park is located about 2 km east of Sumiyoshi Taisha. Spanning an impressive 66.3 hectares, it houses a botanical garden, a museum of natural history, three large sports stadiums (including Osaka’s largest stadium with a capacity of 50,000), and numerous smaller sports facilities and recreation zones. In the 240,000 m² botanical garden, you can find various plant species, with the hydrangea garden (featuring over 6,000 bushes of dozens of varieties blooming in June) and the rose garden (3,500 bushes across nearly 240 different varieties) being particular highlights. At night, the park hosts a popular interactive light exhibition by the teamLab art collective.
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| Nagai Park—the entrance to the botanical garden and the museum of natural history (with whale skeletons suspended in the background) |
To say goodbye to Osaka, we decided to take a look at it from a serious height. Standing at 300 meters, the Abeno Harukas skyscraper is currently the tallest building in Osaka and the second tallest in Japan. It is surpassed only by the Azabudai Hills complex in Tokyo, which reaches 330 meters, and that will soon be overtaken by the Torch Tower in Tokyo, with a planned height of 390 meters. Abeno Harukas towers over Tennoji Station, not far from the Shinsekai district. A ticket for the panoramic observation deck on the 60th floor cost about 11 euros, but if you're on a tighter budget, there is a very nice viewpoint on the 16th floor that is completely free.
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| The view from the 16th floor of the Abeno Harukas skyscraper |
The elevator ride from the 16th to the 60th floor takes about 50 seconds and is accompanied by an impressive LED light projection. On the 58th floor, you’ll find the 'Sky Garden' café and restaurant, where you can enjoy an open-air picnic since the area is roofless. In the center, there is a fountain with a light show featuring LED projections on two tall walls. The 59th floor serves as the souvenir shop and exit zone. Here, you can buy gifts featuring the building’s mascot—a blue bear named Abenobea ('Abeno Bear').
The main attraction is on the 60th floor: the 'Sky Corridor,' a 360-degree glass-enclosed observation deck. You look out over Osaka from a height of 288 meters, and there is even an option (for an additional fee) to go up to the heliport at the full 300 meters. This was the second-highest observation deck I’ve visited in Japan (surpassed only by the Tokyo Skytree at 450 meters). On a clear day, you can see as far as Kobe and the Ikoma Mountains. While the view from the top wasn't bad, it can’t quite compare to the one in Tokyo. The main reason is that Osaka’s skyline isn’t as captivating, and honestly, the view from the 16th floor would have been enough for me. However, the open space with the beautiful LED projection at sunset certainly has its charm.
1st photo - view of the East, 2nd photo - view of the South
3rd photo - view of the West, 4th photo - view of the North
Summary: Osaka is the wild sister of serious Tokyo, and it might not charm every visitor. From my own experience, I most enjoyed Osaka Castle, the Umeda Sky Building, and Abeno Harukas. The forest walk to Minoh Waterfall was also a pleasant change of pace. However, if I had to choose between Osaka and Tokyo, Tokyo clearly wins—it simply offers more opportunities and feels more polished. On the other hand, Osaka’s advantage lies in its location, being so close to Kyoto and Kobe, and its role as the gateway to the Kansai region. To wrap things up, I’ve put together a 👉short video montage on YouTube👈
To conclude, I’m adding a short video of the façade of one of the restaurants in the Shinsekai district:
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