Fukuoka has nearly 1.6 million inhabitants and is the largest city west of Osaka, located on the island of Kyushu, and overall the 6th largest city in Japan. It stretches along the shores of Hakata Bay, which has been inhabited since ancient times. As the nearest major bay and port to the Asian mainland, it often played an important role in diplomatic and trade relations with Korea and China. However, this also made it a key target for attacks during attempts to invade Japan.
In the years 1274 and 1281, Mongol forces landed here, but both attacks were successfully repelled. During the second invasion, the Mongol army numbered 150,000 men, making it the largest amphibious assault in history prior to World War II. Just as the Mongols were on the verge of victory, a massive typhoon - kami-kaze (literally 'divine wind') - struck and destroyed most of the Mongol fleet. During the Edo period (1603–1868) under the Tokugawa shogunate, the port in Fukuoka (unlike the port in Nagasaki) was closed to foreigners. Hakata reopened to international trade in 1899 and continues to serve as an important port to this day.
When I turned on the TV at our accommodation, the colorful and bizarre characters on the screen reminded me of my first encounter with Japanese television during my previous visit to Fukuoka in November 2016. Japanese shows often use bright colors, large captions, animations, sound effects, and emoticons. The screen is frequently overloaded and packed with information—comments, guest reactions, translations... As I mentioned in my 2016 travel blog, there's often a celebrity or comedian’s face in the corner of the screen reacting to everything happening in the show—so much so that you don’t even know how to respond to the content when they’re not there. Comedians and showbiz personalities are everywhere—they host the news, appear in documentaries, cook, travel, and compete in all sorts of wacky contests. I also noticed that food shows are extremely popular—hosts visit various restaurants, taste specialties, and comment on the flavors in great detail. Travel programs often showcase the beauty of Japan, as well as exotic places abroad.
Hakata Port Tower is situated at a port, from which regular cruises sail even to Busan in South Korea
Shortly after settling into our accommodation, we headed toward the port, which was only a 10-minute walk away. From a distance, the 103-meter-tall Hakata Port Tower loomed above. It was built in 1964 and designed by architect Tachū Naitō, whose portfolio of towers also includes Tokyo Tower (I write about visiting it in my blog here), Tsūtenkaku in Osaka, Sapporo TV Tower, Nagoya TV Tower, and Beppu Tower. At a height of 73 meters, there’s a 360-degree panoramic view offering sights of the harbor and motorboat races. However, during our visit, the tower was closed. The races were in full swing, though, even though they were separated by water barriers. So we had only an auditory experience, occasionally catching glimpses on a huge screen. I felt it strongly resembled horse racing, including the betting aspect.
The tower we managed to visit was Fukuoka Tower (234 m), built in 1989 – the tallest seaside tower in Japan. It has a modern triangular shape covered with 8,000 half-mirrors, which is why it's nicknamed the 'Mirror Sail.' From a distance, it looked truly majestic, like a skyscraper. While waiting for the elevator, I noticed that the space between the ground floor and the observation decks was hollow. The ticket cost 1,000 yen (about €5.80). The tower has three observation floors, with the highest one at 123 meters offering a truly beautiful panoramic view – especially in the evening.
From the north side of the observation deck, you can see a large portion of Hakata Bay and the adjacent Momochi Beach. On the pier directly in front of the tower stands the Marizon wedding resort - built in European style. The southern side offers a view of the city. On one of the observation floors, there was also a giant gacha machine (unfortunately out of service during our visit) and dedicated racks with iron bars where couples can attach a lock as a symbol of their love. Naturally, a lock vending machine was right next to it, with a colorful heart-shaped lock costing 1,000 yen (about €5.80). There was also a souvenir coin machine (I’ve been noticing these more and more often in Japan). One coin cost 500 yen, a keychain for the coin was 300 yen, and engraving your name and date was also around 300 yen. For 100 yen, you could also buy a fortune card from the 'Moon Goddess' to keep in your wallet. As a souvenir, I took home a tower-shaped keychain for 500 yen. Clearly, the spirit of commerce lurks around every corner, ready for tourists.
Bear strength
Kumamotois located in the central part of Kyushu, approximately 115 km south of Fukuoka. Its name literally translates to "origin of bears" or "bear foundation" (kuma – bear, moto – origin, foundation), although bears do not live here at all (they are mostly found in Hokkaido and northern Honshu). The name therefore carries more symbolic meaning, where the bear represents strength, protection, or courage. We headed to this city on the second day, mainly to see its castle and famous Japanese garden. The 50-minute journey by shinkansen was still covered by our weekly rail pass from Osaka, but the remaining stretch of the shinkansen route to the final station in Kagoshima was not (I visited that part back in November 2016).
Kumamon the bear
In the city, we were followed at every corner by its mascot - Kumamon the bear. He was created in 2010 to mark the opening of the shinkansen line as part of a campaign to promote tourism and local products. Since his creation, he has been hugely successful and is now one of the most famous mascots in all of Japan. It’s estimated that he generates over 1 billion dollars (!) in annual revenue for the region. His financial success is also thanks to the fact that various companies can use his likeness free of charge, as long as they’re promoting products from Kumamoto Prefecture.
The history of the city began to take shape during the Sengoku period (15th–16th century) and is closely tied to its castle. The castle was built by Kiyomasa Katō - a prominent warlord and castle architect. We had the chance to see his statue on the way to the castle, just before the bridge over the Tsuboi River. Immediately to the left after crossing the bridge were the former stables, now transformed into a “tourist village” - a collection of food stalls (ranging from various ice creams to horse meat dishes) and local souvenirs. Among other things, you could also buy tickets to the castle and mint a commemorative coin ☺.
The aftermath of 2016 earthquake can be seen everywhere
Kumamoto Castle was completed in 1607 and is considered one of the three most important castles in Japan - alongside Matsumoto and Himeji (which I visited on my first trip). The castle grounds are truly vast (1.92 km²) and complex, and its defenses were difficult to overcome in the past. Contributing to this were its curved stone walls, designed to prevent climbing. Originally, the castle had 49 turrets, 18 large gates, and 29 smaller ones, with the total length of its walls reaching up to 13 km.
The castle was severely damaged by an earthquake in April 2016, which compromised the foundations of many structures. Interestingly, the roof tiles were designed to fall off during earthquakes to avoid putting extra weight on weakened roofs. In 2021, the main keep was reopened to the public, but many buildings remain inaccessible. Full restoration is expected to take until 2052.
Main keep and on the right side the Honmaru Goten Palace (planned to be open to public by 2033)
To avoid interfering with reconstruction work, visitors approach the castle via an elevated walkway about 300 meters long. During this “walk through the treetops” alongside the castle walls, you get a clear view of the extensive damage caused by the 6.2-magnitude earthquake. The main keep had already been destroyed earlier - it burned down in 1877. In 1960, it was replaced by a faithful replica, whose interior was rebuilt using reinforced concrete and now houses a museum dedicated to the castle’s history and construction.
The tower has six floors and reaches a height of 30 meters. Each floor features an exhibition focused on a different era in the castle’s history. You’ll find various models, maps, dioramas, photographs, and even samurai armor. The top floor offers a lovely view of the city - and we even ran into some fellow Slovak tourists there.
Main keep of Kumamoto Castle
Suizenji Garden (the second most popular attraction in Kumamoto according to japan-guide.com), dating back to the 17th century, is located about a 30-minute tram ride from the castle or train station. Here you’ll find a miniature Mount Fuji, a fairly large pond, plenty of koi carp, tastefully manicured trees, the Izumi Shrine, and a small Inari shrine with a handful of red torii gates. A fascinating highlight is the still-functioning 400-year-old tea house, which was relocated here from the Kyoto Imperial Palace in 1912.
Suizenji Garden
What’s the verdict on Kumamoto? Is it worth visiting? We only spent a few hours here, so it’s hard for me to give a firm recommendation. The castle is definitely worth seeing, although it’s undergoing extensive reconstruction that won’t be finished anytime soon. Suizenji Garden honestly didn’t impress me much, and beyond that, I didn’t find many things that felt worth visiting.
However, if you have more time, a 1.5-hour train ride from Kumamoto Station will take you to Mount Aso - the largest active volcano in Japan. Add another hour by bus and you’ll reach the famous Kurokawa Onsen, known for its hot spring baths. For bigger experiences, you really need to head out of the city and into nature.
Only Lara Croft is missing
On the third day of our stay in Fukuoka, we ventured outside the city. Nanzoin is a temple complex tucked away in the hills, surrounded by dense bamboo forests, just under 30 minutes by train from Hakata. Originally, the temple was located on Mount Kōya in Wakayama Prefecture, but in 1899 it was relocated to Sasaguri to save it from destruction during a period of anti-Buddhist measures. Since then, it has expanded into a vast complex with multiple halls, shrines, and statues scattered across the hillside.
Turtles in a pond on the way to the temple
With its layout, Nanzoin feels like something straight out of a Tomb Raider level. Hidden corners beckon exploration at every turn - mysterious tunnels, caves, rocks, waterfalls, moss-covered stone lanterns, and mischievously smiling statues of Buddha’s disciples. There are over 500 of these statues scattered throughout the complex, each with a unique facial expression.
Other highlights include the statue of Fudō Myō-ō - a protective deity wielding a sword and rope - and the Tunnel of the Seven Lucky Gods, adorned with wooden ema plaques. The temple is part of the Sasaguri 88-temple pilgrimage, a smaller version of the famous Shikoku pilgrimage.
The main landmark of the temple, visible from afar, is the enormous Reclining Buddha. This bronze statue is 41 meters long, 11 meters high, and weighs nearly 300 tons. Completed in 1995, it depicts Buddha at the moment of entering nirvana. Inside, it houses relics of the Buddha and his two disciples, gifted to the temple by the Myanmar Buddhist Council as a token of gratitude for donating medical supplies to children in Nepal and Myanmar. We even saw a group of monks in traditional orange robes, likely from one of these countries. Every year, hundreds of Buddhists gather to clean the statue using bamboo leaves tied to five-meter poles.
Reclining Buddha of Nanzoin - one of the biggest bronze statues in the world
Buddhas disciples
Verdict: I wholeheartedly recommend visiting Nanzoin during your trip to Kyushu. It’s a beautiful spiritual place, with nature that feels straight out of a fairytale or an adventure video game. There’s an abundance of artifacts to discover. However, it’s important to respect temple etiquette - loud music, dancing (☺), and drone use are prohibited. Another sign at the temple also asks visitors to dress appropriately - covering knees, shoulders, and the midriff.
Temples and shrines of Fukuoka
While Buddhism was imported to Japan from Korea as early as the 6th century, the origins of its Zen school - promoting enlightenment through meditation and discipline - are rooted in Fukuoka. The teachings of this school were brought to Fukuoka by the monk Eisai from China, and they gained popularity even among the samurai.
In 1195, Eisai founded Shōfuku-ji, the oldest Zen Buddhist temple in Japan. Eisai was also a major advocate of tea - he brought tea seeds to Japan and wrote a book on its cultivation.
Over the centuries, the temple was repeatedly destroyed by fire and rebuilt. The current structures mostly date back to the Edo period (17th–19th century). Visitors are not allowed to enter the main buildings, but they can stroll through the serene grounds, which feature gates, gardens, and smaller shrines.
The dominant feature is the Sanmon Gate, whose current form dates back to 1911. Near the gate, there’s a small pond and a stone bridge, and beyond it, a tree-lined path leads to the Butsuden Hall, which houses a statue of Buddha and a ceiling painting of a dragon.
Other notable structures include a wooden bell tower and a hall dedicated to the monk Eisai. The temple is surrounded by the historic district of Hakata Old Town, rich in traditional architecture and dotted with other temples.
One such temple is Jōten-ji, known for its beautiful pebble garden, founded by the monk Enni. When he returned from China in 1241, he brought not only Zen Buddhist teachings but also recipes and flour-milling techniques for udon, soba (noodles), yōkan, and manjū (sweets typically enjoyed with tea).
On our fourth and final day in Fukuoka, we set out to explore more temples and also do a bit of shopping for local souvenirs.
Sumiyoshi Shrine dates back to 1623 and is considered one of the oldest Shinto shrines on Kyushu. In the past, sailors would come here to pray for safe voyages and protection at sea before traveling to China or Korea. On the shrine grounds, valuable historical artifacts from the Yayoi period (300 BCE – 300 CE) were discovered, including bronze daggers and spears.
One fascinating feature is the statue of an ancient sumo wrestler. The lines on his palms resemble the kanji for strength (力), and visitors often rub his hands to feel empowered and recharge their energy.
The shrine is built in the Sumiyoshi-zukuri style, modeled after the shrine of the same name in Osaka. This architectural style emerged before the arrival of Buddhism in Japan, representing a purely Japanese design free from foreign influences. It is characterized by a simple, uncurved roof, adorned with vertical and horizontal poles. The entire complex exudes a peaceful atmosphere, and you’ll also find a row of the iconic red torii gates typical of Shinto shrines.
The history of Kushida Shrine dates back to 757, and it is considered the spiritual heart of Fukuoka. Every July, it hosts one of the most vibrant festivals in Japan, where teams of men carry massive, elaborately decorated floating altars through the city streets. One of these altars is on display within the shrine grounds year-round. Among the highlights is a stone fountain adorned with crane motifs, and the water from it is believed to be a fountain of eternal youth.
Tōchō-ji, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Japan, was founded by the monk Kūkai in 806. It houses the largest wooden seated Buddha statue in the country. Completed in 1992 after four years of work, the statue stands nearly 11 meters tall and weighs 30 tons. Behind the Buddha, a wooden halo is intricately carved with images of various Buddhas.
Next to the Fukuoka Daibutsu, there is an exhibition space displaying various artifacts. Much like the experience at Zenkō-ji Temple in Nagano, visitors here can walk through a dark corridor beneath the Daibutsu, symbolizing the journey of the soul. If they manage to touch the “Wheel of Enlightenment” in complete darkness, tradition holds that they are on the path to paradise.
Among the notable landmarks is the Five-Story Pagoda, built in 2011 without using a single nail. Inside, it houses Buddha relics, which are said to have been brought from China by Kūkai. Another important cultural monument is Rokkaku-dō, a hexagonal hall constructed in 1842. It contains a library with rotating shelves, which hold sutras (records of Buddha’s teachings) and statues.
🍜 Yatai Stalls: The Culinary Soul of Fukuoka
Yatai stalls are an integral part of Fukuoka’s culture—these street food stands have become a true symbol of the city. No other Japanese city can quite match Fukuoka in the number of small mobile kitchens or the diversity of offerings they provide. The most famous dish served at these stalls is Hakata ramen, a type of tonkotsu ramen. Its base is a rich, milky-white broth made by boiling pork bones for up to 18 hours.
Yatai stalls along Naka river
🛍️ Canal City: Fukuoka’s Urban Wonderland
Canal City is a large shopping and entertainment complex located in the heart of Fukuoka. Designed by a California-based architect, inspired by American-style malls, it opened in 1996 and was the first of its kind on Kyushu. Its curved walls with balconies resembling opera boxes face an artificial canal and a performance space. A colorful fountain dances to music, and at scheduled times, video projections light up the area. The complex features over 250 shops, restaurants, and cafés, a large IMAX cinema, and on the 5th floor, the famous Ramen Stadium—a collection of eight different ramen restaurants offering flavors from across Japan.
Summary: Fukuoka once again proves its reputation as a must-visit city on Kyushu.
It offers a unique blend of rich history, shopping, and culinary delights. It’s also an ideal base for day trips to places like Dazaifu, Nanzoin, or even Kumamoto.
🎥 To wrap things up, here's a short video of the Gundam Scramble projection at Canal City:
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