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| Cover photo: Entrance to Gokoku Shrine in Hiroshima |
I visited Japan for the fourth time relatively soon after my third trip to Tokyo. Just a few months were enough, and I found myself once again in the Land of the Rising Sun. The main reason was my roommate Ruslan, who was so fascinated by Japan that he wanted to return as soon as possible. Our cousin Johnny joined us, and we could start planning.
This time, I started missing Kyushu and looked for alternatives to the nationwide Japan Rail Pass, which saw a 69% price increase in October 2023. While back in May 2019, a 14-day nationwide train pass cost us around €383 (47,250 yen at an exchange rate of 123 yen per euro), now it would be as much as €475 (80,000 yen at a favorable rate of 168 yen per euro).
In the end, I opted for a pass with a tongue-twisting name: Sanyo Sanin Northern Kyushu Pass. This mysterious incantation covers the Chūgoku region (“central country”), with Sanyo representing the “southern, sunny side of the mountains” and Sanin the “northern, shadowy side.” This 7-day pass was valid from Osaka all the way to Northern Kyushu (including Nagasaki and Kumamoto) on all trains, including Shinkansen, and cost approximately €155. That’s a reasonable substitute for the nationwide JR Pass if you're planning to explore this particular region.
The downside is its relatively short 7-day validity, considering the size of the area it covers (10 days would be more ideal). One thing to watch out for: although the pass is valid on the Osaka–Kyoto route, it does not cover the Shinkansen on that stretch!
The trip took place from May 20 to June 6, and the full itinerary was as follows:
🏯 2 nights in Nagasaki🌆 4 nights in Fukuoka
🎑 3 nights in Kyoto
🏙️ 7 nights in Osaka
This time, for the first time during my travels to Japan, I completely skipped Tokyo. We flew from Vienna to Osaka with KLM, transferring in Amsterdam, for just under €700.
My previous trip had taught me what to pack, and this time food took up about half of my suitcase (as you can see in the photo below). It included:
🌾 Gluten-free breads and biscuits🥜 Hand-held peanut butter packs
🥣 Lactose-free probiotic porridges
🍫 Low-histamine chocolates
🌿 Gluten-free oats and various teas
After landing in Osaka at Kansai International Airport (KIX)—which is built on an artificial island—I was immediately drawn to the gacha machines and the local Japanese convenience store. As I’ve mentioned in previous blog posts, Japanese gachas are essentially Kinder eggs without the chocolate, but with wildly diverse contents.
For just a few 100-yen coins, you might get:
🧼 A plastic replica of a bar of soap🧀 A keychain themed around cheese packaging or popcorn
🧍♂️ A Pokémon figurine or a quirky mascot
One particularly fun find was a gacha dispensing badges featuring members of the so-called “Takeshi’s Army”—a group of Japanese entertainers who’ve been in showbiz for over 40 years. I have to admit, my fascination with Japanese gachas grows with every trip. There’s something delightfully unpredictable and nostalgic about them.
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| Three amigos in Osaka |
For the first time in Japan, I decided to go mostly cashless. Before the trip, I installed the Revolut app, which offers a free account (you only pay for delivery of the physical card) and, most importantly, allows you to exchange up to €1,000 per month at near mid-market rates.
Here’s how it worked out:
💳 Cash withdrawals: You can withdraw up to €200 per month without fees; beyond that, Revolut charges 2% of the withdrawal amount. We used this right away and withdrew Japanese yen at the first 7-Eleven ATM.
📱 Currency exchange: I exchanged euros for yen in the app ahead of time, and was able to pay cashlessly almost everywhere in Japan—though many places still required a physical card.
🏯 Cash use: I mainly used cash at temples and gacha machines.
🚉 Suica card: I kept using my old Suica, but transferred it to a digital version on my phone and topped it up via Revolut. I used it for payments in convenience stores, trains, trams, and buses.
From personal experience, I can highly recommend Revolut for travel in Japan. It made managing money smooth, flexible, and surprisingly efficient.
After picking up our regional rail pass, we boarded the themed Hello Kitty train to Osaka. The journey from the airport to the city took about an hour. Once in Osaka, we transferred to the Shinkansen, and an hour and a half later, we arrived at our first stop: Hiroshima.
Standing for the second time in a city that was completely destroyed by the atomic bomb was a powerful experience—one that made me feel the fragility of existence even more deeply. There's something profoundly humbling about being in a place that has endured such devastation and yet radiates resilience and peace.
We took the tram to the iconic Genbaku Dōmu – the Atomic Bomb Dome. As I mentioned in my blog from November 2016, this building originally served as an exhibition hall before the war, hosting trade fairs aimed at boosting industry and commerce in the region.
It was designed in 1915 by Czech architect Jan Letzel, blending Art Nouveau and Neo-Baroque styles, and featured a copper dome—the skeletal frame of which remarkably survived the blast.
Hiroshima has one of the most extensive tram networks in Japan, and trams were already running just three days after the atomic bombing. Some of these have been lovingly restored and now operate either as moving mini-museums or in regular service, a living tribute to the city’s resilience.
Hiroshima Castle, just a 15-minute walk from the Genbaku Dōmu, is affectionately nicknamed the “Carp Castle”. Its grounds are encircled by a moat teeming with vibrant koi carp, whose shimmering colors add a serene beauty to the historic site.
🎏 But the name goes deeper than aesthetics. In Japanese culture, the carp (koi) is a powerful symbol of perseverance and resilience, known for swimming upstream against strong currents. According to legend, a carp that successfully passes through the “Dragon Gate” transforms into a dragon, embodying triumph through struggle.
In the context of Hiroshima, the carp becomes a poignant metaphor for the city’s rebirth and enduring spirit after devastation.
⚾ And speaking of carp—“Hiroshima Carp” is also the name of the city’s beloved baseball team, founded in 1949. Their fans are famously fervent and loyal, often painting the stadium in a sea of red. The team itself was born in the post-war era as a symbol of hope and civic pride, much like the city it represents.
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| Omotegomon - main gate of Hiroshima Castle |
One of the two main entrances to Hiroshima Castle is the Omotegomon Gate, a structure steeped in history. The original gate dates back to the Sengoku period—Japan’s own “dark medieval age,” marked by intense clan warfare and shifting alliances. Its reconstruction, completed in 1991, was carried out using traditional techniques and materials, preserving the authenticity of its design.
🚪 Inside the gate, you’ll find a small museum with free admission, offering insights into the castle’s history and the architectural methods used in its restoration.
🌳 Just beyond the gate, along the moat, stand two of the three trees within the castle grounds that survived the atomic bombing: a eucalyptus and a willow. These quiet sentinels are part of a remarkable group—around 170 “hibaku jumoku” (survivor trees) have been documented throughout Hiroshima. Each one is a living testament to endurance, silently witnessing the city’s transformation from ruin to resilience.
The main tower of Hiroshima Castle, built in the late 16th century, rises five stories high and reaches nearly 27 meters. Originally a symbol of feudal power, it later took on a more somber role—during World War II, the castle grounds served as a military base, and a bunker within the area was the site from which the first radio message was sent after the atomic bombing.
⛩️ Also nestled within the castle grounds is the Gokoku Shrine, relocated there in 1965 during post-war reconstruction. When you visited, its entrance was adorned with yellow lanterns, casting a warm glow that contrasted with the shrine’s solemn elegance. Naturally, a statue of koi carp stood proudly within—an enduring emblem of Hiroshima’s spirit.
👶 Here, a poster promoting “naki sumo”, or the crying baby contest caught my eye. The contest is held at the shrine during Children’s Day on May 5th. This quirky yet heartfelt ritual involves parents holding their babies while sumo wrestlers or shrine staff try to make them cry—using funny faces, voices, or masks. The baby who cries first or loudest is declared the winner. This tradition, rooted in Shinto beliefs, is thought to purify the soul and ensure the child’s healthy growth. It’s a charming blend of humor, spirituality, and cultural heritage—and it’s practiced at shrines across Japan.
Kiss my Nagasaki
We traveled from Hiroshima to Nagasaki in just under three hours. In Fukuoka, we transferred from the Shinkansen to the Limited Express Kamome ("Seagull"), and then switched again in Takeo-Onsen to the Shinkansen Kamome.
🚄 This Shinkansen line, which ends in Nagasaki, is actually the shortest in Japan—just 66 kilometers long—and it was officially opened in 2022. The train itself featured stylish wooden seats and had that unmistakable fresh scent of something brand new.
My first impressions of Nagasaki—a city of hills. There’s plenty to explore here, but it definitely requires stamina. Although our accommodation was just a 10-minute walk from the station, climbing nearly 50 meters in elevation with luggage was no small feat.
⛪ Right next to where we stayed stood a church, memorial, and museum dedicated to the 26 Martyrs of Japan, who were crucified in 1597. These 26 individuals—20 Japanese and 6 foreigners—were arrested in Osaka and Kyoto by order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the ruling warlord, for spreading Christianity. The execution site was chosen deliberately: Nagasaki had the largest Christian community in Japan at the time, and the crucifixion was intended as a stark warning.
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| Memorial of 26 Martyrs of Japan |
The history of Nagasaki is deeply intertwined with Portuguese traders and Jesuit missionaries. Christianity was introduced to Japan by Francis Xavier in 1549, and during his relatively brief two-year mission, he succeeded in converting many Japanese—including influential daimyōs (feudal lords).
⚓ One such lord granted permission for the Jesuits to build a port in Nagasaki, intended to serve Portuguese ships. The Portuguese not only facilitated trade between Japan and Europe, but also acted as intermediaries between Japan and China, with whom Japan had strained relations at the time.
🧭 The Portuguese introduced several novelties to Japanese society, including:
Firearms, which would later influence samurai warfare
Tobacco, which became a popular commodity
Bread, known in Japanese as “pan”, a word derived directly from Portuguese
The port was completed in 1571, and the settlement around it gradually evolved into what we now know as modern-day Nagasaki.
Christianity was initially welcomed in Japan. Early rulers supported it as a way to weaken the power of Buddhist monks and because it facilitated trade with Europe. However, as the influence of Christianity grew throughout the 16th century, so did fears of colonialism and foreign interference.
⚔️ In 1597, Toyotomi Hideyoshi issued a decree expelling all Christians from Japan. Despite this, many believers continued to practice their faith in secret, giving rise to the phenomenon of “Hidden Christians” (Kakure Kirishitan), who preserved their beliefs through generations under intense persecution.
🙏 The 26 Martyrs of Japan, crucified in Nagasaki, were canonized by the Vatican in 1862, and their legacy remains deeply honored. Their memorial has been visited by both Pope John Paul II and Pope Francis, symbolizing the enduring connection between Nagasaki and the global Catholic community.
🌊 Before its formal establishment, merchants from the Yangtze River basin would come here to pray to Mazu, the Chinese sea goddess, for safe voyages. Since Christianity was banned at the time, Chinese traders arriving in Nagasaki felt it necessary to affirm their Buddhist identity, leading to the construction of several temples—Kōfuku-ji being the first.
🔥 The temple suffered significant damage in a major fire in 1663, but was later rebuilt using traditional materials and techniques. Today, it remains one of Nagasaki’s most important cultural and historical sites, and is considered the birthplace of the Ōbaku school of Zen Buddhism in Japan.
The atmosphere at Kōfuku-ji Temple felt incredibly serene and peaceful—far removed from the crowds of tourists. The grounds were lush with flowers and greenery, and in a small pond among the lotus blossoms, turtles swam gently. It was the perfect spot for quiet reflection or meditation.
🌉 Not far from the temple flows the Nakashima River, crossed by numerous stone bridges built during the 17th century to serve visitors to the many temples and shrines nestled at the base of Kazagashira Hill. The most famous of these is Megane-bashi, or the “Spectacles Bridge.”
When you stand in just the right spot, the reflection of its twin arches in the water creates the illusion of a giant pair of spectacles. The original bridge was built in 1634 by a Chinese monk from Kōfuku-ji Temple, making it the oldest stone arch bridge in Japan. Though it was destroyed by a flood in 1962, the current structure is a faithful reconstruction using recovered stones.
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| "Spectacles Bridge" over Nakashima River |
🀄 Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown is a fascinating slice of history and culture just a short walk from Megane-bashi. Established in the 17th century by Chinese merchants, it holds the title of Japan’s oldest Chinatown.
During the Tokugawa shogunate (1603–1868), Japan adopted a policy of national isolation known as sakoku. Under this regime, Nagasaki was the only port open to foreign trade—and even then, only to Chinese and Dutch merchants. While the Dutch were confined to the artificial island of Dejima, Chinese traders were initially allowed more freedom but were later restricted to a walled district called Tōjin Yashiki.
🏮 The area known as Shinchi (meaning “new land”) was created through land reclamation to house Chinese warehouses after a fire in 1698. Over time, this evolved into the vibrant Chinatown we see today, filled with restaurants, shops, and Chinese-style gates and temples. Every year, Shinchi Chinatown becomes the glowing heart of the Nagasaki Lantern Festival, celebrating Chinese New Year with thousands of lanterns and cultural performances.
Dejima, once a fan-shaped artificial island in Nagasaki Bay, is now connected to the mainland but still holds immense historical significance. Originally constructed in 1636, it served as Japan’s sole window to the Western world during the isolationist Edo period.
Portuguese traders were the first to use Dejima, but after the Shimabara Rebellion—largely led by Christian converts—they were expelled in 1639. In 1641, the Dutch East India Company took over the island, becoming the only Europeans allowed to trade with Japan until 1858.
The island measured just 120 x 75 meters, and Dutch residents were strictly confined: No religious items or churches were allowed, cargo was meticulously inspected and interaction with Japanese locals was heavily regulated.
Despite these restrictions, the Dutch introduced a wealth of scientific knowledge and cultural novelties:
📚 Books, microscopes, and medical instruments
🍺 Beer, ☕ coffee, 🎱 billiards, 🏸 badminton
🥬 Cabbage, 🍅 tomatoes, 🍫 chocolate
This exchange sparked the movement known as Rangaku (蘭学, "Dutch learning"), which helped Japan modernize its understanding of Western science and technology.
Not far from the church, on a hillside, lies Glover Garden. Thomas Glover was a prominent Scottish merchant who contributed to the modernization and industrialization of the city. In 1865, he built Japan’s first railway track near the port, where he demonstrated a steam locomotive to the local population. He supported the Emperor’s loyalists in their struggle against the shogunate and played a key role in developing the shipbuilding industry and coal mining.
He was instrumental in founding companies such as Mitsubishi (then still a shipping company) and the Kirin Brewery. Glover’s residence, located in Glover Garden, is the oldest Western-style house in Japan, built in 1863. From there, you get a beautiful view of the expansive harbor and the massive cruise ships that bring tourists from around the world.
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| Hypocenter |
On August 9, 1945, at 11:02 a.m. local time, a plutonium bomb exploded 500 meters above Nagasaki. The epicenter of the blast was the Christian district of Urakami, and among the destroyed structures was Urakami Cathedral, then the largest Christian building in East Asia.
Fragments of its side wall were preserved and relocated during reconstruction; today, they are displayed near the hypocenter memorial. The stone reliefs on the wall depict Francis Xavier and the apostles.
Directly beneath the explosion site stands a cenotaph made of black marble. In front of it is a repository containing the names of victims who died either immediately or later due to radiation exposure. The number of casualties now approaches 200,000.
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| Peace |
🕊️ Nagasaki Peace Park, located near the hypocenter of the atomic bombing, is home to the iconic Peace Statue—a powerful symbol of remembrance and hope.
The statue, created by sculptor Seibō Kitamura in 1955, stands 10 meters tall and is rich in symbolism:
The right hand points to the sky, representing the threat of nuclear weapons.
The left hand stretches outward, symbolizing peace.
The face is serene, offering a prayer for the souls of the victims.
The folded right leg signifies meditation, while the extended left leg urges action to help humanity.
Standing in both Hiroshima and Nagasaki within 24 hours is a deeply moving experience. It forces reflection on the value of human life in the shadow of power and ambition. Where is the boundary of human pursuit? Has it already been crossed? I hope that people will one day recognize the true cost of peace and learn to coexist on a planet divided by lines drawn for power.
🌃 In the evening we visited Mount Inasa (Inasayama), rising to 333 meters above sea level—the same height as Tokyo Tower—is renowned for offering one of the three most spectacular night views in Japan, alongside Mount Hakodate in Hokkaido and Mount Rokko near Kobe. The Nagasaki Ropeway takes you from the base to the summit in about 5 minutes. Interestingly, the lower station is located on the grounds of Fuchi Shrine. The ropeway spans approximately 1 kilometer, with gondolas departing every 15–20 minutes between 9:00 and 22:00.
🏞️ At the Summit a 360-degree observation deck offers panoramic views of Nagasaki city, its harbor, and distant mountains. The summit also features TV and radio antennas, a restaurant, and beautifully landscaped areas like Inasayama Park. Standing atop Mount Inasa at night, with the city lights shimmering below like a sea of stars, is a breathtaking experience. |
| Night view of Nagasaki |
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