December 2023, Tokyo part 1 (2)

Cover photo: Christmas decorations at Nissan showroom in Ginza

Previous trips:

November 2016, part one - Kyoto

May 2019, part one - Hakodate

I visited Tokyo for the third time from December 3 to 13, 2023, and a lot has truly changed since my last trip to Japan (May 2019). Due to the global pandemic, Japan's borders were closed to tourists for nearly three years. The Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics were held a year later, in 2021, under strict anti-pandemic measures, without spectators, and with expenses exceeding $20 billion—making it the most expensive Olympics in history.

During this long period of uncertainty, I managed to experience Japan at least virtually thanks to various Japan-based YouTubers who regularly livestreamed their wanderings (an empty Narita Airport or a deserted Kyoto gave me chills).

Shortly after the borders finally reopened and I began planning my trip, my newly discovered intolerances to gluten, lactose, and—worst of all—histamine complicated my plans. This combination of intolerances drastically reduced my dining options.

Flight and hotel prices also increased, so this third journey to Japan didn’t come easily. I spent a long time searching for flights, comparing departure options from Vienna and Budapest. The dream of a direct flight from Vienna for €660 like in 2019 was long gone. In 2023, direct flights only operated from April to October—and even then, prices hovered around €1000.

As for accommodation, one of my requirements was having at least a small kitchenette so I could cook for myself. But the main priority was a good location—close to a metro station. And of course, a reasonable price.

I browsed through dozens of listings on Booking and Airbnb, read tons of reviews, and spent ages dragging my cursor across the map, analyzing distances to the nearest metro, the city center, and Ueno Station. I considered floor access, neighborhood vibe, and amenities (like a separate kitchen and two single beds).

After a long saga of finding the right dates, flights, accommodation, and travel companions, I finally landed on a plan: A shorter 10-day trip to Tokyo in early December.

• ✈️ Flight with Turkish Airlines via Istanbul (€812)

• 🏠 Airbnb in Sumida near the Skytree (€300)

• 🧍‍♂️ Travel buddy: my roommate Ruslan

I booked the flight one month before departure and the accommodation just three weeks ahead… not recommended 😅.

On the day of departure, early in the morning, we battled freezing cold, darkness, and the challenge of hauling our suitcases to the bus stop in front of Incheba. The weather made me question whether December was really the best time to visit Japan. But I had already learned from past experience that Tokyo—and areas further south—were always a bit warmer than Slovakia. So I couldn’t wait ☺.

We were supposed to have a one-hour layover in Istanbul, which—looking back—was nowhere near enough. Istanbul Airport is one of the largest in the world, with the main terminal building covering a staggering 1,440 km². We landed with about a 20-minute delay, and I already had a bad feeling that this connection might not go smoothly.

My fears were confirmed when I stepped off the plane and saw “Gate B13” on the screen… along with the dreaded word: “Boarding.” I had paid extra for a seat near the front, so I got off the plane before Ruslan. I waited for him briefly, but the anxiety of missing the flight to Tokyo got the better of me—and I started running toward Gate B13.

With a backpack on my shoulders and wearing a winter coat, I probably ran 1.5 to 2 kilometers in about 20 minutes. Sweaty like a mouse, I reached the gate just in time—one of the last passengers to board.

Ruslan didn’t make it. He called me from outside the gate while I was already on the plane, saying he was right there—but the crew refused to reopen the doors.

So, for the first time ever, I flew to Tokyo completely alone.

The spacious and freshly scented first-class airplane bathroom - where I occasionally managed to sneak in - was a small luxury

The nearly 12-hour flight passed surprisingly quickly. I didn’t sleep much, but I watched about 5 or 6 movies from a pretty solid selection.

As we neared Tokyo and Mount Fuji peeked out from behind the wing in the morning light, I felt it: I had made it again. My long-dreamed third visit to Japan was now a reality.

After landing at Narita Airport, I headed straight for passport control and then to baggage claim. A message came over the loudspeakers announcing an anti-terrorism drill, and that luggage might be delayed. After a long wait, instead of my suitcase, a list of six names appeared on the carousel screen—including mine. At first, I thought they had found something suspicious in my luggage (I had brought quite a lot of food 😅). When I got to the help desk, they informed me that my suitcase had been left behind in Istanbul...

Mount Fuji stood proudly beneath the wing - an iconic welcome to Japan

It took me at least an hour to explain the address of our Airbnb and fill out the necessary forms so they could deliver my suitcase. Eventually, I had a better idea: instead of the complicated process of sending the luggage to our address, they could simply hand it over to Ruslan, who had informed me he’d be arriving on the same flight the next day.

After sorting out all the formalities, I officially stepped onto Japanese soil. Alone, without my suitcase—just a backpack with a few food items, spare shoes, and my camera.

I had three main goals in mind:

1. Exchange €500

2. Activate my eSIM card

3. Get a train ticket into the city

The first goal was a quick win. I compared exchange rates at currency counters on the ground floor and the first floor of the airport. The upstairs counters offered 157 yen per euro, while the downstairs ones gave 155. The mid-market rate was 159 yen per euro.

Back in May 2019, the mid-market rate had been just 123 yen per euro—a huge difference. Thanks to this favorable rate, prices in Japan didn’t seem high at all. I’d even say they were similar to, or lower than, prices back home.

Activating my Japanese eSIM card was easy, though I couldn’t share mobile data from it. I also quickly sorted out a train ticket from Narita to Ueno and had plenty of time to wander around the airport, since it was just after 10 a.m. and check-in at our Airbnb wasn’t until 4 p.m...

The exchange rate at the airport was a decent 157.24 yen per 1 euro

For the first time in a long while, I used a Japanese vending machine and bought "Pocari Sweat," a Japanese ion drink with a not-so-appealing name. Since it was a beautiful sunny day, I went up to the airport roof, where there's an observation deck for photographers and plane spotters. I sat on a bench, sunbathed, sipped my ion drink, ate a gluten-free cake from Slovakia, and meanwhile took photos and videos of planes.

📨 In the meantime, Ruslan messaged me saying he got a 5-star hotel in Istanbul and a free airport transfer. Well, Turkish Airlines could’ve just waited 5–10 minutes and saved the trouble. According to statistics, this flight is often delayed, which was one of the reasons I thought the plane in Istanbul would wait for us. But alas, they must’ve decided: nope, today we’re on time! A few stranded passengers and lost suitcases—we’ll survive!

The practical can from the ion drink, which I later used to refill with water

At the airport, I also topped up my Suica card — an electronic wallet I got during my first trip back in 2016. It was originally meant for buying public transport tickets, but nowadays you can use it for everyday purchases in convenience stores (konbini) and vending machines.

🚆 Around 3 PM, I headed for the train and within 40 minutes I was at Ueno Station. From there, it’s a 5-minute metro ride to Asakusa Station. From Asakusa, it was about a 10-minute walk to our Airbnb. To enter the building, you had to enter a 4-digit code — same for the apartment door. No physical key.

🏠 Our apartment was on the second floor of a three-story building and had a total area of about 20 m². It featured two separate beds, one table, and one chair. Next to the table was a (surprisingly large for such a cramped space) mysterious box that contained an emergency evacuation ladder...

🧺 Another quirky detail was the dish-drying cabinet and a massive washing machine that took up almost half of the tiny bathroom. Of course, it wouldn’t be Japan without a modern toilet with a heated seat and bidet, and a plastic bathtub-shower combo.

🍳 The kitchenette/entryway had a two-burner stove, mini fridge, microwave, and electric kettle. While the cleanliness and kitchen equipment could’ve been better, for the price — about €33 per person per night — the accommodation between Asakusa and Skytree was very good.

 

🛍️ In the evening, I went out to stock up on supplies, since most of my things — like toiletries, slippers, towel, and food — were in my large suitcase. I also picked up a few kitchen essentials like salt, honey, and paper towels. The only thing I couldn’t find in the nearby convenience stores were slippers, although they did have socks ☺.

🛏️ The first night was fine — I was pretty tired and the bed was comfortable. The next day, I messaged Ruslan saying I’d meet him at Ueno Station. When I got there, it was still early, so I strolled around Ueno Park and visited the familiar golden Ueno Tōshōgū Shrine.

📵 Ruslan wasn’t replying to my messages, and I started to worry. But to my surprise, I found him — and both of our suitcases — already at the apartment. Without internet or any knowledge of Japanese, he managed to get from the airport to Ueno Station and then by metro to Asakusa. He said he asked locals for directions to the Airbnb. Locals — in English!?

😅 He told me that at first, a kind Japanese man helped him get to the wrong address, where they were greeted by a confused elderly gentleman. After checking the photo of the accommodation and contacting the host, they got it right on the second try!

 

Gluten, lactose, histamine... and Japan

Now let me circle back to food and my intolerances. Gluten, lactose, and histamine — that combo quickly eliminates 95% of any restaurant menu, and in Japan, I’d say it’s more like 99% to 100%.

🥛 Avoiding lactose is fairly easy, but gluten is trickier — it’s not just in bread, but also in soy sauce and all sorts of unexpected places. Histamine is even more complicated. Besides eating the freshest food possible (meaning no salami, pâté, canned goods, etc.), you also have to avoid fermented products (like sauerkraut, soy, tofu), citrus fruits (even oranges and mandarins), legumes, seaweed, mushrooms, vinegar, caffeine, alcohol, and tomatoes.

🧳 So I had to stock up in advance and bring as many “survival foods” from home as possible. These included:

• Lots of peanut butter (although I must say at the time of writing this - peanut butter might not be suitable for histamine intolerance, cashew butter is better)

• Packs of gluten-free bread

• Probiotic instant porridges

• Gluten-free oats and sponge biscuits

• Cashew and sesame sticks in honey

• Date-based energy bars

🛒 In local stores, I bought rice, eggs (thankfully I can eat those), and chicken.

Nikkó is a popular tourist destination located about two hours north of Tokyo and was our first full-day trip. I had always wanted to visit this place, but twice before it didn’t fit into my itinerary. The Japanese even have a phrase about Nikkō similar to “See Naples and die.” The main attraction for tourists here is undoubtedly Nikkō Tōshōgū. This famous shrine complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the final resting place of one of Japan’s three great unifiers—Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. In my blog from November 2016, I mentioned visiting the Kunōzan Tōshōgū Shrine in Shizuoka, the original site of the shogun’s burial. His remains were transferred to Nikkō one year after his death.

We had purchased the Nikkō Pass in advance, which covered the train ride from Asakusa as well as local buses. We were greeted in Nikkō by sunny weather, true to the city’s name (which translates to “sunlight”), and beautifully colored red and yellow autumn leaves. After getting off the train, we transferred to a bus at Tōbu Nikkō Station, and shortly afterward we arrived at the red Shinkyō Bridge (translated as “sacred bridge”), considered one of the three most beautiful bridges in Japan and serving as the gateway to the shrine complex. 

I was thrilled—I'd been looking forward to Nikkō Tōshōgū for a long time. But on the way up through the forest, I realized a dreadful fact—my camera was dead... I had naively relied on the battery indicator, which had shown two bars just the day before. Okay, I still had a power bank... but that was dead too. Turns out it was completely broken (more on my attempts to get rid of it in Japan will be in the second part of the blog). My last resort was my phone, but it also held our electronic Nikkō train tickets, so I had to be careful and restrain myself from taking too many photos or videos to make sure the battery lasted and we could get home. 

The shrine complex is located on a forested hillside, surrounded by towering Japanese cedars. Before entering Tōshōgū, you’re greeted by a five-story pagoda built in 1818, which replaced the original that burned down in 1650. Standing 36 meters tall, it is the sixth tallest five-story pagoda in Japan. Each level represents a different element—earth, water, fire, wind, and ether. Its construction is particularly fascinating: it’s designed to withstand earthquakes and typhoons, with a central pillar suspended by chains from the fourth floor, and its lower end barely touching the ground. This ingenious design even inspired engineers during the construction of Tokyo’s 634-meter-tall Skytree Tower (you can read about my visit to Skytree here). Incidentally, one sign pointed out another parallel with Skytree—the elevation of this site is exactly 634 meters above sea level.

  

The history of the Tōshōgū Shrine dates back to 1617, and it underwent extensive reconstruction and expansion. Around 15,000 craftsmen worked on the project, which symbolized the wealth and power of the Tokugawa clan. Upon entering the complex, visitors are struck by several beautifully decorated structures—but don’t miss the more modest stable featuring the famous wood carving of the Three Wise Monkeys, who cover their eyes 🙈, ears 🙉, and mouth 🙊 ("See no evil," "Hear no evil," and "Speak no evil"). This traditional symbol of Japanese culture teaches children to avoid trouble, not gossip, not meddle in others’ affairs, and not act out of spite. In Western culture, however, the interpretation often leans more toward self-deception, insincerity, and ignorance (i.e., turning a blind eye to wrongdoing).

The grounds of the Tóshógú Shrine are truly stunning

The sacred stable will be on your left-hand side upon entering the shrine grounds

The wood carving of the Three Wise Monkeys

The gate you could gaze at until sunset and still not grow tired of—that’s the Yōmeimon, an almost ostentatiously ornate white-and-gold gate that offers a truly unforgettable view. This gate is the symbol of Nikkō Tōshōgū, featured in many tourist materials. And I must say, it looks even better in person than in pictures. Among the more than 500 carvings on it, you’ll find depictions of political ideals, wisdom, and a celebration of Lord Ieyasu’s achievements in ushering in an era of peace and prosperity in Japan (end of quote from the sign near the gate).

The extravagantly decorated Yómeimon Gate - probably the most beautiful in all of Japan

 

 

Breathtaking from every angle - The Yómeimon Gate

Leading into the main shrine is the Chinese Gate (Karamon), richly adorned with white wood carvings. In the past, only the highest-ranking individuals in society were allowed to pass through this gate, and only on exceptional occasions. We entered the shrine grounds through the entrance on the right side and had to store our shoes in designated lockers (in some temples or castles, you carry your shoes with you in plastic bags). Photography was not allowed inside, so I don’t remember exactly what it looked like—but I do recall a lot of gold embellishments.

The main shrine building and Karamon, also known as Chinese Gate

 

 

Just before entering the sacred grounds of Nikkō Tōshōgū, visitors are greeted by a traditional display of sake barrels—known as kazaridaru. These beautifully stacked barrels are ceremonial offerings to the deities, symbolizing gratitude, purification, and spiritual connection. They’re often donated by breweries and used in Shinto rituals and festivals.

But what made this display unique was the unexpected presence of Kirin beer bottles and cans, nestled among the offerings. Kirin, one of Japan’s most iconic beer brands (alongside Asahi and Sapporo), shares its name with a mythical creature—a chimera with the body of a deer, the tail of a cow, and the head of a wolf with horns. In Japanese culture, the Kirin represents good fortune and longevity, and its image is even carved into the lavish Yōmeimon Gate.

Beneath the gate with the sleeping cat begins a staircase of 207 steps leading to the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Until 1867, only the shogun’s family had access to this area. “Life is like a long journey carrying a heavy burden—there’s no need to rush,” reads one of the ruler’s sayings on a plaque along the forest path. At the top, there is a smaller prayer hall (clad in copper plates for fire protection), which was used exclusively by shoguns from the Tokugawa family. The tomb itself looks similar to the one in Shizuoka—though larger and more ornate.

The final resting place of the shogun - ruler Tokugawa Ieyasu

On the way down, we visited the Honjido Hall with with an acoustic curiosity. A large dragon is painted on the ceiling and when wooden clappers are struck beneath its head, the acoustics produce a sound resembling a dragon's cry (as demonstrated by a priest). 

Afterwards, we stopped by the Tōshōgū Museum, which explores the life and legacy of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The museum has two floors: downstairs there’s a café, and upstairs are three portable shrines (mikoshi) and a larger room displaying fascinating items from the shogun’s life. These included samurai armor and beautiful swords gifted to him by various prominent figures.

 

On the way back to Tokyo, during a stop at one of the stations, I watched from the train as a group of schoolchildren boarded a train nearby. In the hustle and bustle, one boy managed to squeeze into the train, but his school bag got caught in the door. For about three minutes while we were stopped, the train the children had boarded still hadn’t moved, and the boy stood helplessly with his bag stuck in the door. So this is one way that train delays can happen in Japan—simply due to overcrowding.

Summary: I definitely recommend placing Nikkō very high on your itinerary. One of the most beautiful temple complexes in Japan lies less than two hours by train from Tokyo, making it perfect for a one-day trip.

👉Continuation of Tokyo in the second part, where we’ll visit Kamakura, Enoshima, Tokyo Tower, and even try beef sushi 😉

Short video of the brethtaking Yómeimon Gate: