Hiroshima, Monday 6th August 1945, 8:15 AM. At an altitude of about 580 meters in the air, an atomic bomb, dropped from an American bomber, explodes and immediately leaves about 70,000 dead (a third of the city's population at that time). By the end of the year, approximately 80,000 people have died as a result of radiation exposure. The survivors described a blinding flash and then a huge pressure wave.
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| Hiroshima after the atomic bomb blast |
Over 70% of the buildings in 12 km2 were completely destroyed. Some stronger concrete buildings, that were built to withstand earthquakes, did not collapse despite being close to the epicenter of the explosion. One of them was the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. Designed by Czech architect Jan Letzel, this iconic building serves today as a memento of the atomic bomb and a memorial of peace.
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| Hiroshima Peace Memorial - Atomic Bomb Dome |
At the Hiroshima Museum, we had the opportunity to see haunting dioramas of burned people walking with their hands in front of them, a scale model of a ruined city used to determine the exact location of the explosion and a number of things distorted by the intense heat of the blast.
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The epicenter of the explosion with T-shaped Aioi Bridge which was the main target
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It was, of course, a deeply powerful experience when I imagine what it must have been like on the scorching summer day that literally turned into hell. The streets turned to ashes, and those who survived stumbled through the wreckage, their bodies burned and their voices barely strong enough to beg for water. But only black rain fell - dark with the dust of the atomic cloud that had just consumed the city.
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Václav Havel in the Peace Memorial Museum
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In the heart of Peace Park stands a touching memorial to Sadako Sasaki, a young girl who succumbed to the effects of radiation a decade after the bombing. In her final months, she folded paper cranes, inspired by the Japanese legend that doing so could grant a wish or bring healing. Although she didn’t live to complete all one thousand, her cranes became a global symbol of hope and peace. Today, thousands more surround her monument—delicate origami in every color imaginable, sent from around the world as gestures of remembrance and compassion.
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| Origami Obama |
By the way, Hiroshima is not Chernobyl and today over one million people live here. The city is completely safe, without increased levels of radioactivity. So I recommend visiting it because of history, when one realizes the importance of peace and the devastating consequences of atomic weapons. And also because of nearby island of Itsukushima, where one can find this peace.
Japanese faith
The two dominant religions in Japan are Buddhism and Shinto. Buddhism arrived from Korea in the 6th century, and after initial obstacles, gradually spread across the country. Shinto has much deeper roots. It traces its origins back to prehistoric times and is stems from respect for natural forces. Over time, it evolved into the worship of various forms of deity (kami). Some deities are local, others nationwide. Japanese pray to the deities in the sanctuaries to which torii gates serve as a spiritual passages. One of the most remarkable of these gates is in front of the temple on Itsukushima Island (also known as Miyajajima - the "Shrine Island"). Located about 20 kilometers from Hiroshima, getting there takes 30 minutes by train and then changing to a ferry (20 minutes).
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| "Floating" torii gate in front of Itsukushima shrine |
In hindsight, this may be the most breathtaking scenery I encountered in Japan. It was still cloudy as we approached and during the ferry ride, but as we stepped onto the island, the sun broke through and the landscape was bathed in golden light. Despite many tourists on the island, the sense of peace and tranquility were still present, which was deepened by the sight of deer resting in the warm glow of the autumn sun. The deer are completely accustomed to tourists, they wandered calmly among them and people were enthusiastically taking pictures with them.
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| Deer siesta |
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| The shore of Itsukushima, the path from pier to the shrine |
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| One of the most photographed places in Japan |
The temple complex itself, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is very interesting. Built on stilts over the bay, it offers a unique, almost floating perspective on the tides. When we arrived, the water had risen and when we left, the tide had receded so much that we could walk ocross the exposed seabed all the way to the great torii gate. There was even an option to take a ride on small boats to reach the torii itself.
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| Itsukushima Shrine and the Grand Torii |
After exploring the temple, we set our sights on sacred Mount Misen. While it's possible to hike all the way up, I opted for the cable car—a scenic ride that glides above the forested hillsides and offers sweeping views of the coastline. From the upper station at Shishi-iwa, though, the journey isn’t over. There’s still a fairly steep walk ahead to reach the mountain’s summit.
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| First cable car... |
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| ...and second cable car |
At 535 meters above sea level, the summit of Mount Misen offers sweeping views over the surrounding islands and the shimmering expanse of the Seto Inland Sea. Just below the peak lies Reikadō—‘Hall of the Spiritual Flame’—where a sacred fire has been kept burning for centuries. This very flame was used to light the eternal flame in Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park in 1964.
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| Buddhist idols below Misen peak |
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| Cable car station and viewpoint called Shishi-iva, viewed from the Misen peak |
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| Ema tablets with people's wishes |
Miyajima offers a unique, almost spiritual experience - an atmosphere that lingers long after you've left. It is a place that should not be missed by any visitor to Japan.
Video below: Romantic scenery with a waterfall and red autumn leaves.
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