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Cover photo: The traditional five-story pagoda at Sensō-ji Temple in Asakusa, with the modern Skytree tower in the background on the left
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Tokyo is, in most cases, the gateway—the first place a visitor to Japan sees and also the last when saying goodbye to the country. It’s where your first impressions and experiences are formed and where your opinions begin to take shape. In my case, it was Narita Airport, located 60 km from the center of Tokyo, where in November 2016 I was able to compare my ideas and expectations with reality for the first time. Japanese writing, Japanese toilets, Japanese vending machines, Japanese trains, Japanese crowds... As I mentioned
in my very first blog, from the airplane Japan looked to me like a large floating board on the sea. To be more precise, this actually applies more to the Kantō region.
The Kantō region consists of the megapolis of Tokyo and its wider surroundings. More than 42 million people live here, which is roughly one-third of Japan's entire population. The significance of the Kantō region rose especially during the Edo period (1603–1867). During the rule of the Tokugawa shogunate, the country's power center shifted from Kyoto in the Kansai region to Edo—modern-day Tokyo. The word “Tōkyō” means “eastern capital,” and this name began to be used from 1868, when power officially returned to the emperor, who relocated from Kyoto to Tokyo.
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| Bentendo Temple on Shinobazu Pond in the Ueno district |
Our final accommodation in Japan was Space Hostel Tokyo, which cost us around €27 per night. A typical hostel with travelers from all corners of the world, it reminded us of K's House in Kyoto from our very first trip. The hostel was just a 5-minute walk from the metro station (Iriya Station) and 12 minutes from the train station (Uguisudani Station). We had already stayed in the Taito ward back in 2016, in its northern part at Hotel Palace Japan. It’s a great starting point, especially because of its proximity to Ueno (where you can catch the Shinkansen or the Narita Express to the airport) and Asakusa (the busiest historic district in Tokyo).
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| A bit different burger: Lunchmeat with egg in rice "bun" (quite filling) |
Ueno district is known for its park, zoo, and museums. In November 2016, we visited the Tokyo National Museum and its gallery. In addition to these, there's also the Science and Technology Museum and the Museum of Western Art. This time, we visited the zoo, where you can see a fairly wide range of animals (the mascots are pandas, but you’ll have to stand in line for an hour to see them). This zoo is actually the oldest in Japan, founded in 1882. In Ueno Park, there is also a statue of Takamori Saigō—the last true samurai (yes, his life also inspired the movie with Tom Cruise).
To return briefly to the topic of waste and trash bins—in Japan, street trash cans are quite rare. To make use of them, you need to know where to look. They’re often found near vending machines, then at stores, train or bus stations, or places where large groups of people gather. The Japanese separate waste into: recyclable (newspapers, PET bottles, batteries...), burnable (kitchen waste, greasy paper...), and non-burnable (plastics, metals...). Non-burnable waste often ends up as construction material for artificial islands created in Tokyo Bay.
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| Princ Akihito - The first president of Japanese Red Cross (statue in Ueno Park) |
Ieyasu Tokugawa was one of the three great unifiers of Japan and the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, which ruled during the Edo period. In Ueno Park, there is one of the Tōshō-gū shrines dedicated to him. Completed in 1651, it has survived many conflicts and natural disasters to this day. The path leading to it is lined with 200 stone and copper lanterns, donated by feudal lords from across Japan as a sign of respect for the shogun. The shrine itself has a gilded exterior and rich decoration filled with carved ornaments of dragons, birds, and flowers. The gate, built in a Chinese style, is adorned with dragons that, according to legend, come to drink from nearby Shinobazu Pond every night. We visited the oldest Tōshō-gū shrine during a previous trip in November 2016 in Shizuoka, and in terms of decoration, it’s quite comparable (though not gilded). The most famous Tōshō-gū shrine is located in the city of Nikkō, which I hope to visit on a future trip to Japan.
The districts of Ueno and Asakusa were connected in 1927 by the very first subway line in all of Asia. According to legend, the origins of Sensō-ji Temple date back to the year 628, when two fisherman brothers pulled a golden statue of the goddess Kannon from the Sumida River. The temple was then built in 645, making it the oldest temple in Tokyo. To protect it from fires, the temple’s roofs are reinforced with titanium. Leading to the temple is the bustling Nakamise-dōri street, which stretches 250 meters and features over 80 shops selling food, souvenirs, toys, sweets, and every kind of trinket imaginable (lanterns, wind chimes, masks, fans, chopsticks... I bought some magnets there ☺). At the start of the street stands the Kaminarimon gate, adorned with a massive lantern (weighing 700 kg!) and statues of the gods of thunder (Raijin) and wind (Fūjin).
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| Asakusa, Sensó-ji Temple - Hózómon Gate and the Five-Storied Pagoda |
Before entering the temple itself stands the second gate—Hōzōmon—which holds various treasures and relics within. On the gate, you’ll also find two 400-kilogram straw sandals known as waraji. In front of the temple is a large bronze incense burner from which clouds of smoke waft. This “breath of the gods” is used for purification and is said to have healing effects. If you arm yourself with enough patience to endure the endless crowds of tourists, Sensō-ji is a must-see for every visitor to Tokyo.
Sayonara, Japan
Akihabara Electric Town lies 1.5 km south of Ueno and is a haven for every fan of anime and manga, video games, cosplay, and maid cafés. With its vast selection of comics, arcades, anime figurines, and music CDs, you can easily lose track of time here. Be prepared for tight spaces and lots of people. You’ll also find a special corner filled with unusual vending machines—offering things like bear or seal curry from Hokkaido, canned bread and muffins, insects (both artificial and real), and mysterious boxes wrapped in paper with spooky stories.
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| Akihabara |
As I’ve mentioned in earlier blogs, the Japanese have no qualms about producing items, foods, and drinks that might seem strange to us. Since the Japanese are crazy about collecting things, Akihabara is full of so-called "gachapon." Gachapon are machines that contain various “collectible items” and work by inserting coins (usually 200–600 yen), turning the knob, and receiving a random item depicted on the machine, inside a plastic capsule. It’s a bit like a Kinder Egg—without the chocolate. In addition to figures from various anime, you’ll find things like mini traffic lights, toilets, functioning doorbells, hair dryers, umbrellas, station signboards, and objects that are hard to describe... basically, imagination knows no bounds...
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| A bit different Hot-Dog: Fried noodles with soy sauce in a bun |
Shinjuku is a district that, among other things, hosts the busiest train station in the world. More than 3.6 million people pass through Shinjuku Station every day. The entire station complex, including its underground levels, features 200 exits.
To the west of Shinjuku Station, skyscrapers dominate the skyline, such as the 243-meter-high Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (the tallest city hall in the world) and the 235-meter-high Shinjuku Park Tower. Together with Shinjuku Central Park, the area resembles a kind of Japanese New York City.
By contrast, east of Shinjuku Station lie districts such as Kabukichō (Tokyo’s red-light district) and Golden Gai (a network of 200 tiny bars crammed together), offering a lively nightlife scene with a vast number of entertainment venues, bars, and restaurants.
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| Godzilla on the roof of Toho Cinemas in Shinjuku |
The name Kabukichō comes from the words “kabuki” (one of the three traditional forms of Japanese theater) and “chō” (town, district). However, you won’t find many kabuki theaters here. Instead, the area is packed with countless bars, pubs, themed restaurants (like the Robot Restaurant or Tuna Demolition Show...), and establishments geared toward an adult clientele.
An izakaya is essentially a type of Japanese restaurant that specializes as much in drinks as it does in food. We decided to try the atmosphere of the Hanbey chain, which focuses on the Shōwa era (1926–1989), essentially Japanese retro.
The entire interior of the restaurant was decorated in Shōwa-era retro style, which (along with the alcohol) transported us back in time. Old posters on the walls, retro toys, and an old television playing in the background helped create a truly unique atmosphere.
We drank hot sake and ate various types of finger food—like chicken skewers, salted green soybeans (edamame), and cabbage, which, for some reason, was “all you can eat” (I assume it was meant to stimulate the appetite or encourage drinking).
The restaurant was absolutely packed, loud, and filled with smoke, so if you're planning something similar, be prepared.
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| At the entrance to the gardens, you’re greeted by this handsome fellow—a “shachi” statue, typically placed on the roofs of buildings or gates for protection against fire (see the Nagoya blog)—from the destroyed original inner grand gate |
One of the last places we visited in Tokyo was the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace, located right in the heart of the city, next to the emperor’s residence (the closest station is Otemachi Station). Entrance to the gardens is free, but guards at the gate will inspect your luggage.
Inside, you can admire the site where the original Edo Castle once stood (or rather, a pile of stones), flower beds, rows of trees and bamboo from all over Japan, ponds with rice paddies, old stone lanterns, and watchtowers.
The grounds also feature the Tōkagakudō Concert Hall (literally, “Peach Blossom Music Hall”), built for Princess Nagako (wife of Emperor Shōwa – Hirohito). This octagonal building is adorned with colorful mosaics.
Lastly, you can find three videos 👀 from my second trip in Japan on YouTube here:
Summary: In one sentence—Tokyo is a unique megalopolis with loads of people and countless fascinating nooks that can be explored for a very long time. To elaborate: once you get past the initial shock of the massive crowds, Tokyo gradually opens itself up to you, revealing its diversity. From ancient temples and shrines to enormous shopping centers, surprisingly large parks, towering skyscrapers, and neon-lit streets of entertainment districts. Alongside all this, you’ll also find shops and places representing every corner of Japan, as well as a rich selection of day trips outside the bustling city (Nikkō, Enoshima, Kamakura, or Hakone).
Final Thoughts: A Few Tips Before Traveling to Japan 🗾
Get a JR Pass – It’s a time-based rail pass covering 99% of trains operated by Japan Rail across the country. Options include 7-, 14-, and 21-day durations. Also grab a SIM card for mobile data to stay connected from the moment you land. You can buy both the JR Pass and SIM card together online. If you're only staying in Tokyo or a specific region (e.g. Tōhoku), get a regional pass instead. If you're only using the Tokyo metro, the full JR Pass isn't worth it.
Exchange enough yen in advance – While Japan is gradually moving toward cashless payments, there are still many places where you'll need coins and bills.
Be polite – Japanese people don’t tolerate loud behavior on public transport, littering, or cutting in line. As mentioned earlier, trash bins are rare on streets (often found near vending machines), so you'll likely need to carry your trash with you until you find one.
English helps—sort of – While English won’t get you everywhere, it’ll be useful in tourist-heavy places like train stations, landmarks, and shops. Many restaurants offer English menus, though the translations may be wonky. Plus, Japanese has borrowed many English words and “Japanized” them: cake → kéki, bus → basu, toilet → toire. Learning a few basic Japanese phrases certainly won’t hurt.
Use Google Maps – Japan is extremely well mapped. Google Maps is your best friend for finding routes and connections. Trains are known for running on time. When your JR Pass expires, get an IC card at the station—great for metro fares, luggage lockers, vending machines, and convenience stores.
Plan ahead – Create a detailed daily itinerary in advance, including estimated expenses. For both of my trips, flights + JR Pass + SIM card cost around €1,000, accommodation (mix of hotels and hostels) for 17 days about €600, and food/spending money another €600. If you’re planning a similarly long trip across Japan, budget approximately €2,500.
Public toilets are everywhere – Especially at train stations, malls, and parks. Look for the blue and red figure pictograms. In 90% of cases, they're clean and free (only in busy areas like Shibuya or Shinjuku did I see paid toilets). Older toilets may be squat-style, but newer ones often have heated seats.
Mentally prepare for crowds and tight spaces – Not ideal for claustrophobes. Of course, it depends where and when you go, but expect hotel rooms to be smaller than what you're used to.
Physically prepare for stairs – Due to limited space, buildings in Japan are built vertically rather than horizontally. Also, shrines, temples, and castles are often located on hills.
Use Japanese convenience stores—konbini – Like 7-Eleven, FamilyMart, and Lawson. Open 24/7 and found on every corner. Besides food, they offer toiletries and essentials (umbrellas, locks, tape…). You can buy hot meals, packaged dishes heated in a microwave, copy documents, and withdraw cash from ATMs.
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| See you in Tokyo 2020... or maybe not... |
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