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| Cover photo: The iconic Yellow Pumpkin at the southern shore of Naoshima |
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Art can truly be found on every corner of Naoshima. Every visitor to this island wants to take a photo with the yellow pumpkin, which is, so to speak, the symbol of Naoshima. In addition to outdoor installations, guests can also choose from a wide range of museums, such as Lee Ufan, Benesse House or Chichu Art Museum.
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| Colorful modern art |
The beaches and coves were beautiful, but I didn’t see anyone swimming. Tourists were more captivated by the art than by the sea, I guess.
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| Torii gate buried in sand, with a sea view |
The Benesse organization also manages the “Art House Project,” which currently includes seven sites. These once-abandoned former residences (and even a former dental clinic, for example) have been transformed into mini art galleries. The project began in 1998, and its goal - beyond offering an artistic experience - is to connect urban visitors with the local community.
In the center of Honmura town, visitors are drawn not only to the thematically curated Art Houses but also to the painted walls and the strikingly modern Naoshima Hall.
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| Naoshima Hall - A Community Center |
Built in 2015, the hall serves as a community center, sports arena, and botanical garden. It was inspired by the island’s traditional architecture, thoughtfully incorporating elements like water, sunlight, and wind, with a unique system of air circulation inside.
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| Scenic corners of Naoshima's coastline |
Salt production was once a traditional livelihood on the island, and you can still buy Naoshima salt in the local souvenir shop. The shop also offers a variety of items featuring the iconic pumpkins. However, I found that everything there seemed quite overpriced.
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| Coca-Cola with vitamin C |
Exhausted and sunburned, we made our way back to Takamatsu, hoping to still catch a glimpse of the Ritsurin Gardens before they close.
Farewell to Shikoku
Ritsurin Gardens (literally “chestnut grove”) are among the most famous gardens in Japan, and the view with the bridge can be seen on various postcards and brochures. The gardens themselves cover 16 hectares and date back to the 16th century and the Edo period. Despite the name “chestnut grove,” the gardens are dominated by pine trees—there are over 1,000 of them here.
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| The most iconic view in Ritsurin Gardens |
We had to rush through the entire garden because it was really about to close. Otherwise, it was a typical Japanese garden - with koi carp and turtles, and a tea house in the middle of a pond. I don’t know, I didn’t feel particularly captivated - maybe because we didn’t have enough time to truly soak in the atmosphere of the place.
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| A bit retro local train equipped with a fan for those hot summer days |
Before leaving the next day, I made a quick visit to Tamamo Park, the former site of Takamatsu Castle, built in the 16th century. The park is very close to the station and can easily be explored in under an hour. The castle’s main keep no longer stands - it was destroyed during the Meiji period.
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| One of two original turrets left of Takamatsu Castle, overlooking the sea |
The moat around the castle is filled with saltwater from the sea, which is quite rare. You can even take a boat ride through it. The entire park is beautifully maintained and well worth the 200 yen entrance fee.
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| Sanuki udon noodles with pork (450 yen) |
As a farewell to Takamatsu - and to Shikoku as a whole - we treated ourselves to Sanuki udon at a local restaurant near the station. Udon are traditional Japanese thick wheat noodles, and Sanuki is the former name of this region of Shikoku. Sanuki udon noodles are known for their distinctive texture and are one of the reasons tourists visit the area, as they’re among the most popular noodles in Japan.
There are countless restaurants in Takamatsu that serve them, as well as many different ways to enjoy them. You can have them the classic way in a hot broth, or cold with soy sauce or lime. Other common toppings include green onions, fried tofu, egg, seaweed, various vegetables, or tempura shrimp. I went for the broth with pork, and I was genuinely surprised by how juicy and flavorful the noodles were.
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| Pilgrims dressed in traditional attire, ready to travel across Shikoku and complete the visit to 88 temples |
Summary: What I appreciated most about Takamatsu was its calm atmosphere—no one seemed to be in a rush. There were relatively few tourists, the climate was pleasant, and the local noodles were absolutely excellent. I definitely recommend visiting Yashima, and if you’re an art lover, don’t miss Naoshima. The famous Ritsurin Gardens are nice, but if that’s your only interest, you can find similar gardens elsewhere in Japan. We only saw a small part of Shikoku. Hopefully, I’ll return someday—and who knows, maybe I’ll even embark on the pilgrimage to all 88 temples....
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