November 2016, part eight - Tokyo 1/2

Tokyo - the capital of Japan - is a vast, buzzing anthill of a megalopolis. More than 13 million people live within the city’s 2,200 km² limits. If we include the Greater Tokyo Area - which spans 13,500 km² and encompasses suburban cities like Yokohama and Kawasaki - the population reaches a staggering 38 million (!), making it the world’s most populous megacity region. For comparison, that’s roughly equal to the entire population of Poland, a country over twenty times larger in area.

Panorama of endless Tokyo

Tokyo is a marvelous city, although I was not enchanted at first. After traveling across Japan for nearly two weeks, I’d seen so much that Tokyo initially felt like just another bustling commercial center - similar to Fukuoka or Hiroshima. The authentic Japanese atmosphere seemed somewhat overshadowed by the presence of Western tourists, who were more numerous there than anywhere else we visited. It was also the only city in Japan where I noticed homeless people and beggars - though far fewer than in most European cities. Tokyo was the first place I encountered paid public toilets, too; until then, every facility had been both free and impressively clean. And of course, there are people everywhere. Yet once you move past these few drawbacks, you begin to see the charm. Tokyo has layers - it’s full of fascinating, often hidden corners that truly reward the curious explorer.

After arriving in Tokyo, we stayed at the Palace Japan Hotel in Taitō, where we spent the final five nights of our trip. Well - despite the name - it was certainly no palace. The room, just 1.5 by 2.5 meters, had a bunk bed and barely enough space for one person, let alone two. On the bright side, the staff were kind and everything was clean. Still, the room felt quite cold, both in temperature and comfort. That said, the hotel had good access to the city center, which made exploring Tokyo relatively easy.

Submarine-like room

Tokyo has faced near-total destruction twice in its history: first in 1923, when a devastating earthquake struck, and again during World War II, when incendiary raids by American bombers reduced large parts of the city to ashes. We didn’t have to wait long to experience an earthquake ourselves. On our very first night in Tokyo—Tuesday, November 22, at 6 AM—I felt my bed sway slightly. It lasted just 3 to 5 seconds, and at first I thought it was my roommate simply turning over in their sleep.

Tokyo's main train station is a renovated version of the original building built in 1914 and influenced by Western design. It bears a resemblance to Amsterdam's Central Station. The station connects to Tokyo's extensive metro network with a number of long underground corridors.

Tokyo - the main railway station

The Imperial Palace is located a few meters from Tokyo Station. The total area together with the adjacent park covers almost  3.5 km². The palace itself was constructed on the historic ruins of the old Edo Castle and destroyed several times, especially by the aforementioned American bombing during World War II. The palace grounds are surrounded by moats and the entrance gates are guarded by security guards. The area acts like Tokyo Central Park, with lots of runners and greenery.

Nijubashi bridge over the moat and the guard tower Fujimi-yagura in the Imperial Palace complex

Just beyond the Imperial Palace lies Tokyo's Government Quarter and the Japanese Parliament.

Japanese Parliament - The National Diet Building

Of course, we couldn't skip Akihabara - the famed electronic district - during our stay. You could wander in the shops for a week, though for my style it's too crazy here with crowds of people and shouting sellers (quite unusual in a shopping mall). Prices aren't that amazing. I think most things that can be found in Europe are cheaper here, but the real draw is a really huge selection.

Star Wars collection in one of the malls

The futuristic Yokohama

One day, we took a train from Tokyo for a day trip to nearby Yokohama. The ride from Tokyo central station to Yokohama takes about 30 minutes. By the way, it was between Yokohama and Tokyo where the first Japanese railway line was opened back in 1872.

This steel piece of work in front of the Landmark Tower is called "Moku Moku Waku Waku Yokohama YoYo" (no, I have no idea what it means :-)

Yokohama has rapidly developed as one of Japan's most important port cities. It was Yokohama, where, after limiting Japanese isolation in the mid-19th century, merchant ships from all over the world docked. Many immigrants, especially the British, lived here and many buildings were built in a Western design.

Part of historical port area and a Hard Rock Cafe in front of the Landmark Tower

Naval cadet training ship from 1930 - Nippon Maru

Today, Yokohama is a modern city with the second tallest building in Japan - Yokohama Landmark Tower. The skyscraper reaches a height of 296 meters and has the second fastest lift in the world to reach the 69th-floor lookout in just over 40 seconds, a speed of about 12.5 m/s or 45 km/h. The view from here is absolutely worth it.

Minato Mirai district and the Yokohama Landmark Tower, nearly 300 meters high

View of "Asian Dubai" from the 69th floor of the Yokohama skyscraper

The part of the town, where the Landmark Tower is located, is called Minato Mirai 21. It means "Port of the Future of the 21st (Century)". It also includes a 100-meter ferris wheel (the tallest in the world when it was built), the vast World Porters Mall, and Japan's largest Chinatown.

One of the entrances to Yokohama Chinatown

The highlight of our Yokohama trip was the Ramen Museum. As I mentioned in the previous blog, ramen is basically a broth with noodles, complemented by pork, egg, seaweed, soy sauce and chopped leeks. The museum is very stylish, and inside its interior is a refurbished version of Tokyo in the 1950s, with restaurants in front of which you can buy tickets from vending machines and then exchange them for ramen in a restaurant of your choice.

Interior of underground ramen museum

Saké bar

The ramen was ok, but it is not my favorite Japanese dish (sorry :).

Komurasaki, ramen from Kumamoto prefecture

Music to listen while eating ramen (not DVD to show you how to cook ramen ☺)

The winner of Japanese dishes is for me katsudon, close to the omelette rice.

Also very tasty pork with teriyaki sauce

Continued in Tokyo (2/2)! 👈

Two small clips from unique atmosphere of Ramen museum: